I've been back for five months. So much of my life has changed since I sat on the steps of L'Opera at Place de La Bastille and watched the unending cars circle the great monument. I am no longer who I was, tho perhaps I will be again. American University contacted me yesterday. Their packet informed me that I was accepted into their law program. That's two schools now I can choose from. What will happen in the next couple months is anyone's guess. My future is broadening even as it closes in around me.
I have a wonderful life now, as I did then, but life is different and I feel the waters of time pouring over my memory and fading some things, crystalizing others. Will I keep the precious memories of an unforgettable season of my life? Or will time cruelly steal them away?
I awoke usually early afternoon at La Res, my apartment in Paris. Any earlier and I wouldn't get 8-10 hours of sleep. I would stumble down the hallway, my flip-flop covered feet making deep smacking echoes, and climb into a shower. Afterwards, I would make my way downstairs and snag some fruit out of the kitchen and maybe cook some breakfast (eggs, lardons--a type of bacon, and sliced tomatoes). Gez would sometimes be there ("Oh, love! You look tired, would you like a cup of tea?), sometimes Pim (the tallest Dutchman I ever met) or Mike (a.k.a. Fugger), the skinniest Quebecois I ever met.
I would make my way out into the common room (the hideous flowery wallpaper and Christmas lights made it all the more homey) and find a spot between Big Texas John and Little John, who would undoubtedly be watching one of the dozens of videos left at La Res by previous tenants. Favorites were "Trainspotting" and the incorrigeable "Eddie Izzard." I sat down, munching slowly on my scrambled eggs or cutting chunks of baguette out to spread some camembert on. The cigarette smoke would be heavy in the room and the sun would be pouring in through the greenhouse-like glass behind the television. Later in the summer, the heat would become unbearable, but now it was just right.
After the second or third film, someone (Raquel from Costa Rica or Kristin from Oklahoma or maybe Yvonne, the South Korean from Holland) would come in and announce an event going on that night (Fete de la Musique for example, or some Exposition-Exhibition, a trip to a museum or just a picnic with friends) and people would begin to mobilize. Within a couple hours, the girls would be all done up, brilliant in their night skirts and make-up. The guys, well the guys did what they could.
First, however, was a trip to the "Ed," the local grocery store. After picking up more baguettes, different odds of food and some with uncountable bottles of beer, wine and hard liquor, we would come back to the Res. We were well-stocked for the next day which many would spend gently overcoming the impending hangovers. Tonight, however, I wasn't going with everyone. Tonight was my night with Our Lady of Paris.
For the last couple hours, I had been playing saxophone in my apartment, serenading the neighbors and the couples down in the courtyard. Now, feeling sufficiently warmed up, I say goodbye to the growing group of people getting ready for their night on the town (promising them I would certainly go next time) and hop on the train and head down town.
At Place St. Michel, I get off the train and make my way up the undeground steps. I immerge next to the river and walk a few hundred yards under a brilliant sun that has almost made its way to the horizon. A million people swirl around me, talking, walking passing by on bicycles and mopeds, dodging cars or sitting at cafes and staring. I love the latter the very most. They are my kind of people. I pass the small St. Michel park on the other side of the road and see couples sunbathing on the grass in dying sunlight. Tourists fill their water bottles in a little fountain while little kids kick up dust eddies in the rocky path.
I climb down another set of steps and make my way on to the stoney quais across from Notre Dame. An hundred yards more and her flank fills my whole view, even as she sits majestically up and across the river. Les Pretres et Les Religieux chime the bells and the air is filled with music. I set my saxophone case down and prepare to make my own.
As the bells die away, I pull out my saxophone and start to play. Couples pass, young and old. Arabs, Berbers, Brits, Americans. Another busker, a Romanian playing a baghpipe, comes up to me and wants to play together. He jumps up and down with his music, a jester from a forgotten age. I play with him, weaving melodies and harmonies into his. He stops from time to time and smiles, his eyes closing and the countless creases on his dark face expressing joy and serenity. We play songs we both know and create new ones as people stop and listen. We both forget everything but the music as the sounds pour out of our instruments and into each other, casting spells in the most magical place in the world.
As night closes in on us both, I thank him for a wonderful evening and close up my case. The night becomes refreshingly cool and I walk my way back to the train station. I make my way back to La Res and join those who chose not to go out for the night. Out in the courtyard between the two halves of La Res and behind a large steel door, a dozen people are playing cards, listening to music and talking. I place my sax upstairs and come back down.
The night is just beginning...